Happy Easter to my on-line classmates
by Mimi Dillman
Shuttles: 2, wound CTM
Thread: Samples made from Manuela size 20, color 204
3 meters (or yards) split evenly between the two for the small egg, 4 meters (or yards) for the large egg.
Each egg is made in one continuous round beginning and ending with a standard ring (all other rings are split rings). Any picots should be very small for joining picots.
Small egg actual size: 5 cm (2 inches) tall, about 3.5 cm (1.5 inches) wide
Large egg actual size: 6 cm (2.5 inches) tall and 4.5 cm (1.75 inches) wide
If you need to learn how to make cluny leaves (or even just a refresher) click here.
Note to diagrams: “-” indicates a small picot for joining purposes; “+” indicates where to join to that picot.
Tip: Keeping the egg’s shape curving the proper direction
I am sure you have noticed that when you make a series of split rings, the line will curve. That curve is toward the side of the unturned stitches. This curve is a natural result of the process of pulling the ring closed. Those stitches on the unturned side get compressed first and hardest while you close your rings. Well, rather than try to fight this or enhance it, I just went with it. I kept almost all the rings 8/8 except the one at the top of the egg (where the curve must be tighter, so it became 9/7), and those where you turn the corners to/from the line of leaves (12/4 or 4/12 as needed).
So while you work an egg, try to orient the work so that you make your rings so that the unturned stitches are on the inside of the egg.
Tip: Where to reverse work:
Reverse work when you turn the first corner between rings and the first line of clunies. This will keep the rest of the rings facing away from the work, and so out of your way as you weave. You will also be in just the right position for joining the next ring to the first ring of the egg.
In the little egg, you will not need to reverse again. On the big egg, you will need to reverse again before starting the second line of clunies (for the same reason as above).
Tip: Keeping your clunies in a straight line
In order to keep your clunies in a straight line, make the second half of a double stitch (the “over” movement) where the loom thread is your ball thread (over the hand) and the weaving thread is your shuttle thread. See the diagram. When you pull this half stitch firmly down on top of the leaf, your threads should come away at right angles from the leaf’s point, but in the same plane. Then you’re ready to make your next leaf or ring.
This page originally created 5 March 2002